Cabinet refacing is a smart way to give your kitchen a fresh look without ripping everything out. Instead of replacing the entire cabinet boxes, you keep the existing frames. You also add new veneer to exposed surfaces and swap new doors or draw fronts.
Since most of the structure stays put, the job usually costs less and wraps up faster than a full cabinet replacement. You still end up with a clean and updated finish that can look custom-made. All of this work results in less mess and material waste.
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Key Takeaways
- Cabinet refacing can dramatically change how your kitchen looks because you’re updating the parts you see, while keeping the existing cabinet boxes that are still in good shape.
- It’s usually cheaper and much quicker than replacing everything, and many projects finish in just a few days with less mess and downtime.
- Since you’re reusing the cabinet frames instead of throwing them away, refacing cuts down on waste and is generally a more eco-friendly way to remodel.
Cabinet Refacing Project
A DIY cabinet refacing project is totally doable if you take your time and stay organized. You’re basically giving the cabinet boxes a new “skin,” then finishing it off with new doors, drawer fronts, and hardware. The results can look surprisingly professional, but the prep work and careful measuring are what make it.
Materials Needed
- Wood or laminate veneer sheets (enough to cover every exposed cabinet surface)
- New cabinet doors and drawer fronts (custom-sized or pre-made to fit)
- Contact cement or veneer adhesive
- Edge banding (iron-on or peel-and-stick that matches your veneer)
- New hardware (hinges, handles, pulls, knobs)
- Wood filler and putty
- Sandpaper (120-grit and 220-grit)
- Primer and paint or stain (if your doors need finishing)
- Degreasing cleaner
- Painter’s tape
Tools Needed
- Cordless drilll with bits
- Measuring tape and level
- Utility knife or veneer trimmer
- J-roller or hand roller (to press veneer down evenly)
- Iron (for heat-activated edge banding)
- Clamps
- Pencil for marking
- Safety glasses and gloves
- Circular saw or table saw (only if you’re cutting large veneer sheets yourself)
Step-by-Step Guide
- Remove doors, drawer fronts, and hardware: Use a drill or screwdriver to remove hinges, doors, drawer fronts, and all old knobs and pulls. Label everything with painter’s tape so you don’t waste time later guessing what goes where.
- Clean the cabinet boxes well: Kitchens collect grease in places you don’t notice until you touch them. Use a degreasing cleaner and don’t rush this step. Let everything dry fully before you move on, or your veneer won’t bond the way it should.
- Fill and sand the frames smooth: Patch old hinge holes, dents, or chips with wood filler. Once it dries, sand with 120-grit to level it, then go over it again with 220-grit so the surface feels smooth and ready.
- Measure and cut your veneer: Measure each exposed area, including stiles, rails, and any end panels. Cut veneer slightly oversized so you can trim it clean after it’s installed. Tiny measurement mistakes show up fast here, so double-check as you go.
- Apply adhesive to both surfaces: Follow the adhesive directions exactly. Most contact cement needs to be applied to the cabinet surface and the veneer back, then left to get tacky before you press them together.
- Attach the veneer carefully: Align one edge first and work your way across instead of slapping the whole sheet down at once. Press firmly and use a J-roller to push out air bubbles and get a strong bond everywhere.
- Trim the excess veneer: After it’s set, trim the overhang with a sharp utility knife or veneer trimmer. Take light passes instead of trying to cut through in one go, it’s cleaner and less likely to tear.
- Add edge banding: Cover any exposed edges so they look finished. Iron-on banding works well if you apply steady heat and press it down firmly. Trim the excess, then lightly sand the edge so it doesn’t feel sharp.
- Install hinge plates on the cabinet frames: Mark hinge locations carefully and drill pilot holes if needed. Install the hinge plates and make sure they’re level, because small misalignment here turns into big alignment headaches later.
- Hang the new doors and attach drawer fronts: Hook the doors onto the hinges and adjust them so gaps look even. For drawer fronts, attach them with screws from inside the drawer box, checking alignment before fully tightening.
- Install new handles and pulls: Measure and mark placement so everything lines up. A simple drilling template (even one made from scrap wood) helps keep hardware spacing consistent across the whole kitchen.
- Do final adjustments and cleanup: Check door reveals, tighten screws, tweak hinge adjustments, and make sure drawers slide smoothly. Wipe everything down, step back, and you’ll immediately see the upgrade.
How Cabinet Refacing Works
Cabinet refacing gives your kitchen a major visual upgrade while keeping the existing cabinet boxes in place. The structure stays, but everything you see and touch gets updated, so you get that “new kitchen” look without the noise and mess of a full tear-out.
Preparation and Component Removal
It starts with prep work. The cabinet boxes are cleaned and lightly prepped so the new materials will stick properly. Then the old doors, drawer fronts, hinges, and hardware come off, leaving the cabinet frames in place.
If you’re adding small changes like a taller cabinet, a new pantry section, or extending cabinets to the ceiling, that framing work usually happens here. The idea is simple: get everything solid, level, and ready before any new surfaces go on. Since the boxes don’t get removed, your kitchen often stays usable for much of the project.
Applying the New Veneer
Next comes the part that changes the “face” of the cabinets. A veneer is applied to the visible outer surfaces of the cabinet boxes so the frames match the new look. That veneer might be real wood or a tough laminate, and it’s cut to fit your exact cabinet layout.
Installers use strong adhesives and careful trimming so the veneer sits flat and tight along edges and corners. This is what hides the old finish and gives you a clean, consistent surface, like the cabinets were made that way from the start.
Installing Doors and Hardware
Last, the new doors and drawer fronts go on. These are ordered to match the veneer and are usually pre-finished, which helps everything look uniform.
New hinges, often soft-close, are installed and the doors are adjusted so the gaps look even and the lines feel straight. Then the knobs, pulls, and any trim or molding get added. This is the moment the kitchen really comes together, because those details are what you notice every day. Once everything is aligned and tightened up, the space looks updated and you can use it right away.
Cabinet Refacing vs. Full Replacement
Cabinet refacing and full cabinet replacement can both make a kitchen look brand new, but they’re very different projects. The right choice usually comes down to what you’re trying to change, how much disruption you can live with, and how far your budget needs to stretch.
Cost and Time Comparison
Cost is the big separator. Refacing usually comes in cheaper because you’re keeping the cabinet boxes and only replacing what you see, like doors, drawer fronts, and the exterior finish. Since you’re not paying for new boxes, heavy demolition, and a longer install, many homeowners end up saving a noticeable chunk compared to full replacement.
Refacing also moves fast. A lot of jobs wrap up in a few days. Full replacement often takes weeks once you factor in tear-out, carpentry, fitting everything back together, and the ripple effects on counters, walls, and flooring. If you want a big visual change without having your kitchen out of commission for long, refacing is often the easier route.
Environmental and Structural Impact
Refacing is usually the lower-waste option because you’re not throwing away cabinet boxes that still work. In many older kitchens, those boxes are solid and can last a long time. Keeping them in place cuts down on landfill waste and reduces how much new material needs to be manufactured and shipped.
Full replacement creates more debris, plain and simple. It also tends to pull other parts of the kitchen into the project. Once the old cabinets come out, you might need to patch flooring, adjust countertops, repaint walls, or move plumbing and electrical. If you’re trying to keep the project smaller and more straightforward, refacing usually fits that goal better.
Flexibility and Design Possibilities
Full replacement wins on flexibility. Since you’re starting over, you can change the layout, move cabinets, add new storage zones, and redesign the kitchen to work differently. This is the option that makes sense when your current setup doesn’t function well or you want a major layout change.
Refacing has limits, but it’s not “basic.” You can still change the style a lot, like going to shaker doors, a clean slab look, or a more traditional profile, and you can upgrade hardware, add crown molding, and switch to soft-close hinges. You keep the footprint, but you can dramatically change the look and feel. Refacing is often the sweet spot when you like your layout and just want it to look updated and feel nicer to use.
Conclusion
Cabinet refacing is a solid option if you want your kitchen to look updated without paying for a full gut remodel or living through weeks of disruption. You keep the cabinet boxes that are already working, then replace the parts you actually see, which is where most of the visual impact comes from.
It sits nicely between a quick paint refresh and a total replacement, and the finished look can feel genuinely “new,” not just touched up. If your current layout works and the cabinets are still structurally sound, refacing is a practical way to improve the space and often boost resale appeal at the same time.
FAQ: Cabinet Refacing
- How much does cabinet refacing typically cost?
- Costs depend on your kitchen size, the door style you pick, and the materials you choose, but many refacing projects land in the $4,000 to $10,000 range. In a lot of cases, that’s roughly 30% to 50% less than replacing everything. It’s a good middle-ground spend when you want a nicer finish without jumping into full renovation pricing.
- How long does the refacing process take to complete?
- Most professional refacing jobs are done in about three to five days. Since the cabinet boxes stay in place, there’s far less demo work and fewer moving parts compared to a full replacement. That shorter timeline usually means less dust, less noise, and a kitchen you can get back to using sooner.
- Can I change the layout of my kitchen with refacing?
- Refacing keeps your existing cabinet footprint, so you’re not moving boxes around. You can sometimes add pieces like a pantry cabinet, an island, or a matching run of cabinets if the plan allows, but the core layout stays the same. If your current setup functions well and you mainly want a new look, refacing is often the better fit.
- What is the most durable material for refaced cabinets?
- Solid wood and high-pressure laminate are both strong choices. Wood has that classic look and can be refinished later if you want a change down the road. High-pressure laminate (and materials like RTF in some installs) tends to handle moisture, stains, and everyday wear really well, which can be a plus in busy kitchens. The best choice depends on how hard your kitchen gets used and the look you’re after.
- Is it better to paint or reface my kitchen cabinets?
- Painting is cheaper and can look great, but it mainly changes color and won’t fix dated door styles or worn-out surfaces. Refacing replaces doors and drawer fronts, so you can change the style, profile, and material, not just the finish. It typically holds up better long-term and looks closer to a factory-made cabinet update, especially when the installation and alignment are done well.
